Scooting West Africa: THE RIDE

LET THE RIDE BEGIN

Not a lick of this has been edited. Sorry. Almost done and then I will go back and correct the error......maybe.

Dakar

Feb 23

Six riders had arrived last night all with tales of flight delays. We meet in the lobby after a normal European buffet breakfast and ready to explore. First on the agenda was an ATM and sim cards for the phone. I, having recently changed to TMobile cell service, was not in need of a sim card for the first time in all my travels. I had finally given up the fear of less coverage than Verizon, so far not true, and switched. My cell bill went down 30% and I now have coverage in 210 countries, a service that Verizon wants $10 dollars a day for.

Out of the hotel we turned right and headed for town. This is one of those cities that sort of just grew with no real planning. There is no common architecture or probably building codes. I mention this as it makes things hard to spot as the are no big signs that say ATM or Bank. This is a moderate Muslim country and being respectful I asked permission to take pictures of some people, as I have started tending to do in my travels, and was told “no” politely several times. Besides, we were busy talking and catching up from the past year.

We catching up on each others lives we walked past the ATM the hotel sent us to. The next ATM did not like our cards. So the guard sent us down the street to some unknown location. Scott, I and the Prey’s headed that direction and Penni and Walter headed for the Orange store to get sim cards. We discovered the ATM in a small semi-modern mall and it was glad to take are cards and spit out CFA, the local currency. Located next to the ATM was a phone sim vending and Scott picked up a sim card.

This accomplished, the next task was a beer and off Scott and I went while the Preys headed out to be tourist. We passed several closed places and at one a gentlemen inquired of what we where looking for. When we told him beer, he said go on down the street to J’Go and we did. Scott, and later Walt, ordered Desporado beers infused with tequila. They were good. Penni and I had expresso.

Recovered from that adventure, off we went in search for lunch. We retraced our path and took a left to the beach. The water front is a rocky cliff about 10 feet down to the water and not very developed. After walking for about 30 minutes I came upon a place to eat, since the others had refused all the little street “cafeterias” . Scott hesitated, but eagle eye and 70 years of experience around the world said “this is it”. There is no longer a doubt as it was wonderful! Lunch done, about 4:00, we headed to the hotel.

Short rest and we are all off to our welcome dinner to meet our guides Phil and Matt. The food, especially my whole fried fish, was wonderful.

A good time was had by all and we called it a day.

Desperodo beer

Guard at the restaurant

Penni's "shrimp" lunch

We had the daily special of chicken

The grill man

The kitchen

They would not eat here

Welcome dinner

Excellent fish

DAKAR TO SIMAL

FEB 25

The wise men that they are, Phil and Matt had staged the scooters in the town of Warang, about one and a half hours out of Dakar. We got to Warang via mini-bus and I felt a lot safer in it than on a scooter. This removed us from the crazy traffic. In Warang, we had lunch, and got to play with scooters on a dirt road just to get the feel of the machine. Once comfortable we loaded the scooters, and headed south. The road was good and the traffic was light. I will state right here, that this is fantastic!!!! Even having spent years in third world countries this was a whole new experience on a scooter smelling nature and dodging donkeys. These guys run a great operation. We made several stops just to let people take a deep breath. Our group is an experienced group, but most have never ridden in this environment and these are scooters that are what are known as “shifty’s”. We mostly ride Vespa’s and just twist the throttle and go and never worry about the gears. These Chinese wonders have four gears that you must shift up and down and takes a little experience.

Getting into the Eco-lodge for the overnight was, at the least, challenging. We offloaded our bags onto a Senegalese pickup truck, a horse drawn two wheel wagon in the small town, had a beer for fortitude and headed off into the deep sand and little scooters do not mix well in deep sand. But to get to more beer we had to accomplish this task and it was a challenge. The front wheel often looked like a snake slithering in the sand turning left, turning right as it chooses and all you could do was hold on for the ride. But, though battered and tired, all riders made it to the hotel on the water.

Then beer flowed, having survived the first day!

The Simal Eco-lodge is located on the water on not far from the Atlantic. We come to learn that this is a upscale lodge with power, hot water and a pool. We had a communal dinner of excellent food and called it a day.

The Yaas Hotel

Loading the bus

Senegal pickup truck

Lunch were we loaded the scooters

Hit the road!!

It ain't broke. It is brand new and they are adjusting the chain and other new things

Beer break before we attack the sand

Our bags are sent ahead via pickup truck

It is a lot harder and deeper than it looks

Every time we stopped a crowd would gather

Roland enjoying the end of the ride day

Beers for all

Our humble abode for the night

SLIDE SHOW 1
xxxxxxx

FEB 25
SIMAL-TOUBAKOUTA

Today we ride into the Sine-Saloum Delta and overnight at what will be the nicest lodge that we will stay in on the whole trip, the Keur Saloum Hotel/Lodge

But first we had to get back through the sand. Two riders threw in the towel and a couple of local boys rode the scooters out and they rode out via vehicle. Since the sand was cooler it was much easier to conquer in the morning.

From there we just went on a great ride through Senegal country side cross the river in several boats...with scooters.

Leader Matt looking for his riders

We saw lots of scooters wrapped in bubble wrap or something similar

It is always a comfort to see Walt in the rearview mirror

Crossing the river in the canoes. The bridge in the back ground is being built by the Chinese. They bring all their own equipment and workers and leave all the workers behind when the finish, thus establishing a beach head for future Chinese influence. As a friend described it, they are human kudzo.

Being led by a Australian there is at least one beer stop a day.

Sunset beers on the water

xxxxxx

FEB 26

TOUBAKOUTA TO SERREKUNDA, GAMBIA

There are no "African" animals in West Africa. But, there is a Fathala Wildlife Reserve with they have many of these animals in large fenced areas, 100's of acres, and they roam free. There are lions, wart hogs, buffalo, giraffes, and others. Their main mission is preserving the Lord Derby Eland.

We paid the reserve a visit. Part of the experience is a "walk with lions". The take young lions and train them not to eat the guest and for a fee you can walk with them and get photos. When they reach the age of maturity, around 4, they are sent off to reserve just for them away from the crowds.

We did the walk and rode around looking at the other animals in a safari vehicle. Having been to the real Africa it was a little hooky but service the purpose of education and preserving the eland.

From their we headed off to Gambia. This time we crossed the Gambia river in style on a ferry.

The big advantage of having knowledgeable guides is that they take most of the pain out of crossing borders.

We went on the Serrekunda, are low end resort city on the ocean.

Several of the riders had been detained in Dakar for a extended period for taking pictures of the US
Embassy. Pictures are not allowed of police or check points of which there are many. This at the Gambian border and is illegal.

Building boats on the beach

Boubacar,our great mechanic and fantastic individual, and Matt take a break while crossing the Gambia river

Boubacar wiring my torn pants

Loaded and ready to dash off the ferry. If not you get run over.

So...who are these crazy riders.....

Matt of Scoot West Africa. An Australian with hostel, restaurant, and travel business in Mali

Phil, an American, and Matt's partner in all this weirdness

Scott, my brother from North Carolina

Penni, an award winning and Pulitzer Prize nominee photographer from Calif.
A great person and rider.

Roland, owner of more than 35 scooters and great organizer of our trips. From Pennsylvania.

Queen Connie. Great rider and sleeper. From New Jersey

Jeannie from Florida

Bill, Jeannie's husband from Florida

JimC of London and California. Great friend to have if you own a Vespa. He has lots of answers.

Kristin the cat lady. Jim's wife. They met on one our scooter adventures.
A wonderful and kind person.

Walt, my friend and neighbor in Florida. Walt is one of the immaculate dressers.
This is the first time I have ever seen him dirty.

Boubacar of Dakar. Our traveling mechanic and all around great person.

Jan 28

SERREKUNDA TO ABENE

After a day on the beach and two nights in the Palm Beach Hotel we are on the road again. First stop is for gas and items for a picnic lunch we will have down the road. After clearing town the ride becomes easy again on the paved highway. But, Scoot West Africa, has another idea. A right turn puts us back in the dirt and sand. We stop about half way and while everyone goes for a tour of the village, I pull out the Fuji instant camera and start taking pictures of the children of the village. This always is a big hit but it comes with the pearl of everyone wanting a picture and that is not possible. So Matt steps in to control the enthusiasm and declares that the pictures will go to the oldest in the family. This brings a little organization but not much. This is a trick I learned many years ago with a Polaroid but I was not sure how well it will go over in modern times when a picture is just a phone away. I am pleased to see that a printed picture is still a big big hit.

We take what is know as the smugglers route back into Senegal via Kartog. There is a Gambian official office and we are stamped out. We load the scooters again into canoes and while they cross we have our picnic lunch and cold beers. We have crossed back into Senegal and as there is no official office on that side of the river Matt takes off to get us stamped into the country.

The ride again turns into a sand track as we follow goat tracks and wandering paths about the width of the scooters to the Little Baobab Ecolodge, where we over night. The dinner is cooked over open pit fires and it is the best fish we have on the trip. There are drum lessons and a wonderful dance and drum playing after dinner. I am stunned how fast these people can move to the drums.

We had one of the finest meals anywhere in Serrekunda.
The Danish owner/chef came out to explain the meals.

Boubacar and Matt secure our picnic lunch to the scooter

Matt and Phil purchase fruits for lunch from a vendor.
She had lost her fence around her garden and could not avoid to replace it thus losing her living.
Matt and Phil had given her the money to but in a new fence and she was back in business.

Crossing back into Senegal from Gambia via the smugglers route.

A stop to visit a town and meet the chief

The children, before the crowd came, that I gave pictures to.

Goat trail. Big butt, narrow alley

almost all meals were prepared in an open kitchen

Evidently there is a world famous drummer here and he is giving lesson to our crowd.
We met people from England who come every year to study under this guy.

JAN 29
ABENE TO BIRD ISLAND

We left the Little Baobab Ecolodge with a local guide to show us the short cut to the "road" thus avoiding about half the sand we fought through yesterday. But, not to worry, Matt and Phil had more for us as we were off to see the huge tree. This Baobab tree is massive. Actually it is three trees in one. From there we headed down the highway continuing our journey south. Again we turned off the paved road and made our way to the water front. We left our scooters in the small town and then walked through the sand about a quarter mile to boats. Matt rounded up porters to carry our gear.
Back in a boat, we head up river to Isla Equeye and the Bird Island Echo lodge. This was a great place again with hair dryers or hot water, but generator lights and a flushing toilet. Again a few beers, a great dinner and we were all off to bed.

Stopping at the gas station

The big tree. That is Walt, me and Scott tucked in the curve.

Walts new best friends

So, what is significant about this picture? This is the only time I have seen Roland not
smiling from ear to ear.

That is the Guinea Bissau consult and Matt went in to get our visa's.

We left the scooters in town and walked through the sand to hop a boat to the island.
Local porters carried our bags to the boat.

The only charging station on the island

The only bar on Isle Egueye

sunset

JAN 30
BIRD ISLAND TO THE KINGS TOWN, OSSOUYE, SENEGAL

A lovely quite morning on the water. I was able to have it to myself for a short period time before the others awoke. I was also able to get the night man to make me some coffee that made the view even better. After a breakfast of coffee, juice, toast and jam and we were off again in the boats. There were no porters when we landed so we hauled our bags ourselves back through the sand to the bikes.

We rolled into highway and headed to Cape Skirring. This is the only the second town that we have encountered tourist, or at least more than a few. The gang went off to get photo's on the beach and went off to see the people. I wandered the main street and then started down the back alleys. The living here is just subsistence as we have seen on most of this trip. But, like every where they people were friendly and those that spoke English readily engaged in conversation. Most, but not all allowed pictures, but I still restricted my picture taking. I was here take pictures with my mind and heart.

After lunch I gave Scott and Walt an abbreviated tour of where I had been. We all tried to buy a small trinket just to leave a little money. I recently had to do some research Mr. Buffet, Jimmy that is, and found that he has a foundation that takes one dollar of every ticket he sales in a town and in some manner gives it back to the community. I am now trying to that in my travels in areas that are less fortunate than I.

From the Cape we back tracked to our overnight destination of Ossouye. Another bare bones lodge, but like all the others clean and neat. The owner took us on a tour of the town. First stop was to show us a "fetish". Fetish is part of the Annamist religion. One I had never heard of. Animism is a religious belief that all objects, places, and creatures possess a distinct spiritual essence. Animism perceives all things- animals, plants, rocks, rivers, weather, etc. is animated and alive.

Bird Island

The kitchen

The island toaster

outside kitchen Bird Island

Cape Skirring

Buying a few fruit from this lady opened door to the others working saling there wares on the road.

It even led to me getting a girl friend

Down the alleys

Fried fish

Ever wonder where all those clothes you donate got to? They make large bundles and sale them for export. Then they are bought for penny's and sold on the streets of countries like this.

Moustapha Diagne jewler

Djibril jeweler

The oven where we had lunch.

I wanted this......

...but I got this.

Our chefs

"good lunk"

This is the location of the "fetish" for this family. The house appears to be long abandoned but the fetish
remains and religious events are held around. When they are the street is full of people.

This the communication drum. It, along with others across the country side, relay messages.
Only special people can use it and the training and technic seem to be secret.

The back yard.

The big event today and one of the big events is we got to meet the King. This is related to the religion and still do not have a great grasp on the religion from fetish to King. The king is elected and once elected does not leave the region. It is job to look over his people and resolve and problems, arguments, or legal disputes. Once elected he moves into the home of the King. He is also presented with two additional wife's.

Our local guide had us park on the side of the road so see if the King would give us and audience. While waiting we were briefed on the protocol of being in his presence. When he comes out we would all be standing in line, he may or may not shake our hands, we would address him as "maan," when ready he would indicate for us to set, he may or may not take questions, and he may or may not answer them and if lucky, he would pose for a picture with each person. All of this came true, he shook our hands, he answered some question and he passed on others and we all got a picture with him.

The question part was a very enlightening when our mechanic, Boubacar asked to present a question. Unlike us, he stood, thanked the king for having us, said that in his culture when addressing a elder or a king it was proper to stand and then ask the king to bless us on our journey. This just put me more in awe and admiration of Boubacar.

The "palace" entrance

Phil, explaining the protocol of the king.

Me and the King

From there we headed off to the cashew plantation.

That little thing sticking off the end of the fruit is the nut.

The crack each not by hand, one at a time.

They are then roasted for ours. There is a lot of work that goes into preparing a cashew for sale.

JAN 30
OSSOUYE, SENEGAL TO BIASSAU, GUINEA-BISSAU

I awoke this morning with thoughts of India in my mind. That was probably brought about by the fresh fragrance of sewage drifting through the open window from the over flowing septic tank outside of the window.
An early start for us today as we had a long way to go but more because we would be leaving Senegal, easy, and checking in to Guinea-Bissau. Guinea-Bissau is a "dirt poor" country as we say in the south. That means there will be more checkpoints and delays at the border. The more checkpoints the more chance there is to get income, officially and unofficially. I believe there were six stops to get into the country. One for immigration, on for the military to see that immigration did their job, one for customs, on for the paperwork on the scooters and one just because.

Once in the country the roads went to hell. Up till now all the paved roads had been decent. Now it would be like offroading on the road. Long stretches in low areas have been washed out. On some stretches the locals have filled in the pot holes with dirt and then string a rope across the road hoping to collect a few cents for their effort. We stopped midday for a picnic lunch in what is some times a bar, if anybody in town has any money.

Traffic into the capital city of Bissau got wall to wall , 5 lanes of traffic in a three lane road. The group split into two groups and made our way through. I was impressed with how nice the drivers where. They gave us space and blocked for us as we snaked our way through the trucks, bus's and car's that where stopped or moving slowly.

We all made it to the hotel with no major incidents. As mentioned getting the room reservations honored is a challenge here. The hotel we were booked in was short three roooms and when volunteers where asked for mine, Scott and Walts hands shot up. Good think we got chosen. We where her for two nights and the main hotel was over a disco that started at 10pm and a casino. Don't even be thinking Vegas. Think of the worst building in your town that is run down and almost abandoned. That was the hotel. We where moved three blocks away to a hotel. Like all our hotels it was basic, old, worn, but clean and safe. Plus, it had hot water. Freshly showered we joined to group for a walk in the dark streets to dinner. There are street lights, but they don't work or there was no power to them In fact, the power for the whole capital city comes from a electrical generator on a ship in the river supplied by Turkey and apparently it is broke most of the time. Or at least while we where there. Most big buildings had large generators to keep them powered. After a good dinner, we went to the plaza in front the palace and had a tropical caipirinha made from cane liqueur. Some of the people went home and some continued on into the night to party some more. I was one of those that headed home.

My fine overnight bed

Scott ready for another big day

Miss Connie

These guys peddle these bags of grass for miles and miles to sale for just a few cents.

This a excellent road in Guinea Bissau. Many places we drove down
a track on the side of the road

Lunch time

Nothing better than baguette and ham and cheese

The is very little infrastructure in this country and that includes gas stations.
So, they make gas stations. Here we refilled out of liter water bottles at the "gas station".

The main hotel

Our hotel

Scotts balcony served as a pole for the power line

dinner

Street drinks

JAN 31 BISSAU

Today the gang went off to the market and I chose to wander the town on my own. It is the image of long past of African towns. Run down architecture from the times of colonization, poor or no infrastructure and not much hope. Again and again when I went to take picture people wanted money for the privilege and I respect that. But even taking street scenes very well dressed people came up and offered to take a picture of me for money. Sadly, I had no change or I would have paid for some of the pictures. Walt told me that someone explained to him that the old wife's tale of your taking picture takes away your spirit with a picture is not true. What they believe is you are stealing an image of them that they believe you should pay for the privilege of having. Despite that little hitch in my plans everyone was friendly and glad to talk.

A side street downtown

The main commercial street in the downtown

Fresh catch at the fish market

The road to the left is the main drag up to the palace.

The old Portuguese port still in use by the military today and in extremely poor condition

This unnamed church had the only green in town.

The palace and palace square

sunset beer next to the soccer field

MARCH 1
BIASSAU TO ZIGUINCHOR, SENEGAL

Today is our last day on the scooters so we headed back to Senegal and the port city of Ziguinchor. It was a repeat of the day coming down. Stop at the "gas station", have a picnic lunch, cross the border with only two stops and quick at that. We rolled into the hotel on the river about mid-afternoon. That was it. We parked the bikes, got our suitcases, unpacked our saddle bags and prepared for the final leg.

back to the gas station

The well equipped guide always carries refreshing lavender spray.

another picnic lunch

The "we are done" selfie

MARCH 2
ZIGUINCHOR TO DAKAR

We made our way to ferry dock for our overnight ferry back to Dakar. Meanwhile the scooters took the bus back. The ferry has a ugly history. The last ferry sank killing over 2000, the second largest sea tragedy at that time. The boat was certified to carry 580, they had sold over a thousand tickets, and the others just walked on. On the boat, we had two person rooms. Everyone was excited that the showers had hot water. Evidently I was the only one with hot water at the hotel last. The others didn't even have a hot handle in the shower or sink. Unfortunately, though promised towers, there were none on the boat. Some waited until morning and took a shower and used the sheet as a towel to find out the sheets were almost like plastic and would not dry them off.

They thought a truck was coming to take the scooters back to Dakar,
but they went by bus instead.

Throughout this ride there was tons of plastic everywhere. Even in remote area
we come across large areas of plastic, especially on the river banks.

I think this one will make it.....I hope.

MARCH 2
DAKAR TO PARIS

The boat docked a 4:30 in the morning and they ran us off the boat at 7. Our flights did not leave until 10 or 11 PM. I thought of getting a hotel room but check in would not be until 2 pm, so I came up with a brilliant idea and rent a AirBnB for the day. There were some communication problems with owner and it took us a lot of time and three stops until we found it. We all stored our luggage and ran into complications. A key was needed on each floor to access the elevator so some walked down the five floors to find out that there was a locked gate at the bottom of the stairs and no way to get out. So, back up they came and we shuttled down on the small elevator. First stop was breakfast with familiar things like eggs and bacon and toast on the beach all the way on the other side of the traffic choked city. After breakfast we went off to find some money at a ATM. Four stops and no money we met the others at beach were the small boats ferried over to Le De Nigor island. On the island we had a couple of guys who decided they would be our guides. At the end they try to hold us up for 10000 cfa person for the tour with the pitch that they did not get the money, the money was used to buy rice for the people on the island. We asked him if wanted to buy a bridge in NY. We parted ways and started to meander the little alleys to find our way back to where our ferry arrived. Fortunately, there was a gentleman who could not speak or hear and he would grunt and point and got us to where we needed to be. He was selling scarfs and hats so we bought a few scarfs and I did not even try to negotiate the price. We hoped the boat back to the mainland and went off to find lunch and ended up back at our breakfast restaurant. Other patrons where happy to show us what they ordered and explain the dishes to us. Back in the cabs and back across town to the apartment. We had kept on of the taxi drivers all day because we know he could find the apartment again. Back in the apartment we said good by to Jim and Kristin as they had an earlier flight. The rest off took showers and changed to traveling clothes. Again with no hot water. The trip to the airport was extremely slow in the crowded streets for about the first hour of the trip and the all the traffic went one way and we went the other down the toll road to the airport. Our last time through immigration and finger printing. Mine again did not work and in fact we had crossed up the passports and I left as Scott Wilson. So much for security.